Thursday, 14 August 2008

Dynamic vs. Static

Being short, I’ve adopted a rather dynamic climbing style as a means to make the holds seem as though they are closer together. It is a decent enough strategy, but is also limiting in its own way.

I spent years going to the same wall in London but I never appreciated how much this wall influenced my climbing style. Recently I went back there after a few months break and I noticed that I automatically fell back into the old habit of just lunging for holds.

There are times when popping for stuff is the only option, but equally, I think that I’ve learned to use a bit more technique, specifically utilising deep lock-offs. It’s been greatly magnified of late for me since I am climbing with a pulley tear and I shudder at the thought of going for a crimp, latching it only for a second to subsequently have my feet peel off and my bad finger along with them. Owch.

As with most things however, I am starting to think that maybe a hybrid approach would be of the most benefit. Once my finger is healed I would like to be able to static as much as possible while leaving enough in the tank as possible to go all out if need be for a hold that is far away.


Stubbs said...

I think it's better to think about static vs. dynamic as a sliding scale rather than two options: there's times when it is necessary to lock slowly to take a poor hold in total control, and times when you have to pop as the hold will be too far away to reach. Any situations in between these extremes you will have the option of how fast you go for a hold; often the most efficient way to hit holds seems to be half way in between the two, a sort of bumping motion.

I hope this makes sense!


Jenn said...

Thanks again.

Yep, that does make sense and looking back on it, I think that what I’m trying to work towards. Control when you need it but equally having the ability to pop for holds that are out of reach (and to be honest, most of them are for me!).