Monday, 4 February 2008
A New Direction?
The desperation for dry rock took us to Portland last weekend. I’ve never really gotten on with the place before and decided that a completely new approach was needed if the weekend wasn’t going to be a waste of time.
We decided to work a (soft touch) F7a instead of trying to flash something of a much lower grade. The experience was quite interesting and definitely gave me pause for thought. I was able to do every move except one reachy one just before the lower off. I felt engaged in a route for the first time. The effort that I put into working out the best sequence seemed to be leading to something worthwhile. My biggest concern was dealing with the pump I had after just a few moves. I guess not surprisingly I need to work on my endurance.
Sadly, the winds picked up the next day and we weren’t able to go back, but I definitely want to project a (relatively) hard sport route. Although my first love will always be bouldering I think there is something to be gained from doing the odd route here and there.