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Wednesday, 6 February 2008

Plan of Attack

After succumbing to yet another cold, I had a bit of time on my hands so I decided to put together a list of all the problems I want to do this year. It’s 5 pages long and contains over 100 problems from V1 to V9 (one guess as to which V9 it is!).

I can easily see how it might appear as if I am taking a bit of fun out of climbing, distilling it down to a list of problems and grades, but given that I live in London (far away from rock) and in one of the rainiest countries on the planet, I don’t get to spend nearly as much time climbing as I would like. I’ve found that in past having a targeted approach maximises time spent on worthwhile problems. Of course I also have days of aimlessly wandering around trying whatever problem catches my eye, but this list isn’t for those type of days. This list is for the odd day when I’m actually feeling strong.

Also, my list gives me a bit of focus - my goals solidified rather than amorphously floating around in my head. Knowing what you want is sometimes half of the battle. I can then adapt my training tactics to stack the odds in my favour.

4 comments:

Tim said...

You can't say you've made a list without putting at least a taster up! How about just the top five hardest?
1:Soulslinger
2:?
3:?
4:?
5:?
Lists are great for training inspiration and reminding you of the goals you actually want to achieve.
TimS

Jenn said...

Fair point! There are just so many of them…

2. The Checkerboard
3. The Cable Guy – Jerry’s Roof (I love the rock there, but I don’t know if this is ever going to be possible)
4. Simple Simon – Churnet (If I ever get my shoulder sorted! I already did the first campus moves on it)
5. High Speed Imp Act – Churnet (Well if Fiend can do it… j/k!)

Tim said...

Nice list! I never made it over to look at Checkerboard when I was at the 'milk, but seeing it in videos it is now near the top of my list for when I return! Not made it down to the Churnet but those probs look amazing. As for Jerry's, I reckon you should have the main line on your list! Hope there's some more grit lower down your list - there's plenty of steeper crimpy problems around - you just have to seek them out!

Jenn said...

Cheers. The Churnet is great! It's like grit, but more featured with pockets and edges. I definitely recommend a visit. Cottage Rocks is good for a warm up (Pine Buttress is sand-baggy though), then head over to Wright's for the best lines.

I do actually have quite a few grit problems on my list. Mark's Roof Left Hand at Gardoms is on the top. It's grit, but it has holds on it :-)